Fish pastillas @ Bertrand Gueneron

Bertrand, I know him since I was a kid
He used to work in luxury gastronomy restaurants
now, he has his own restaurant in Paris : Le Bascou
\\ My review of the Bascou at the end of this post ! //

Guéneron, la volupté, la discrétion
C'est simple : en sortant, on a l'impression qu'on nous a confié une adresse fragile, 
noble et sentimentale (...). C'est comme un cadeau qu'on n'ose porter trop loin (...) 
douceur, compréhension et bienveillante volupté.
Le Figaro, François Simon.
Translation : Gueneron, subtility and sensual delight
It's easy to describe : once out, you feel as you've been entrusted a noble, sentimental and fragile address.  It's as a gift that you barely dare giving away. Softness, understanding and bright delight.

Préparez vos papilles, c’est la meilleure adresse du quartier
Depuis que Bertrand Guéneron, formé par Senderens, a repris ce restaurant basque un peu mou du béret, le Bascou a pris un sacré coup de piment sur la tête. C’est fête de Bayonne à chaque plat...
Le Fooding.com
Translation : Prepare your taste bud, it's the best address of the neighborhood
Since Bertrand Guerneron, trained by Senderens, became the owner/Chef of this uninteresting restaurant, the Bascou took a strong "chili on his head"/became of great interest. It's Bayonne's festival all around the menu, each appetizer, main course or desert... !

This recipe is light, savory and slighlty sweet. I made it 3 times 
(it took me 3 times to make it perfectly)
Though we enjoyed it every time :)
The first time it was after a quick chat over the phone, I interpretated it but I had some doubts.
Then Bertrand answered my questions for a second try, and finally, the 3rd was perfect !

  Réalisation    Easy when you know what to expect and how to manipulate Filo dough. I didn't have all the ingredients, butthankfully, they are easy to use in other recipes :) (Filo dough > appetizer or deserts, dry apricots > cakes or sweets, raw pine nuts > salads, savory muffins).In the USA, Filo dough are bought frozen, so you have to use them correctly, I'll explain it all. The folding of the pastilla can be tricky, the most important skill to have : be quick about it !

  Dégustation    Surprisingly delicious. The fish is amazingly tender.
I goes alltogether perfectly. It's a delicate, fresh and light combination of flavours. The filo dough are so light that you don't even taste these (only 2) But they bring a crusty + and maintain it together.
I loved the cinnamon and the suga on the top, but some don't like the sweet/savory blend, then it's optionnal.

- "Dinner is ready !"-

Serves 4
- 4 adults, or 5 smaller ones -

   You will need :   
for the pastillas
2/3lb of wild salmon (300gr)
2/3lb of catfish (300gr de cabillaud)
8 filo dough sheets
3tbsp fresh basil, sliced
6 to 8 leaves  -
2tbsp raw pine nutes
- 1tbsp coarsely choped, 1tbsp whole -
2tbsp dry apricots, chopped
1/4 cup olive oil (5cL)
1tsp cumin powder
cinnamon, powdered sugar

\\ I put a lot of basil, a bit more apricots, a bit less oil ! //

On the side
3 tomatoes, peeled and heart removed
2tbsp green olives, slices
1tbsp black olives, sliced
Green salad
Oil & Vinegar

"My" on the side
First, I did as Bertrand said, and the second time, 
I cooked some zucchinis in a pan, with pine nuts and cumin powder.

The day before, take the filo dough out of the freezer and put it in the fridge 

Prepare the "on the side"
Rinse and dry the salad and the tomatoes
Bring to a boil in a saucepan, water and 1 pinch of salt.

Cut the extremity of the tomatoes to remove the stem.
Put them in the boiling water for 10 secondes, them in cold water for 30 secondes.
\\ It's realy quick ! You don't want to cook the tomato //
Place the tomato on a cutting board, remove the skin with a knife, it must wear off easily.
Cut them in half (in the length) and remove the heart. Cut them in dices.
Serve on the salad.
Stirr olive oil and balsamic vinegar with your sliced olives, spread on the salad.

\\ Make an extra of salsa : 
in a ramequin, slices olives + 2tsp vinegar + 3 tbsp olive oil, salt, pepper //

Prepare the pastillas
Preheat the oven at 410°F
Remove the fish's skins and cut them in dice (regular dice size)
Chop finely your dry apricots.
In a bowl, stir the fish, with the fresh basil, cumin powder, raw pine nuts, apricots and olive oil.

Stir, divide in 4

Unroll the filo dough
\\ You have to use them quickly, because they get dry and fragile in the air //
Place 1/4 of the mix on a filo sheet, spread a little bit in a disk shape.
Fold the sides on the top to obtain a round shape. Put a second sheet on the top and return the pastilla upside down. Fold it before the first one breaks.
\\ To make a nice fold, I turn clockwise, doing small triangles from the center //
Place the pastilla in a plate before cooking it.
Fold the 4 pastillas.
Heat your pan at medium/high heat, grease it with an absorbent paper dipped in oil.
Place the pastilla and let them get golden 1min30 on each side.
Be careful they don't burn. They must be golden, not black !
\\ The filo dough burns too quickly ! //
Place the pastillas in a oven-dish or on a tray covered with parchment paper.
Cook in the oven (it must be real hot ! 410°F) for 6 minutes

As soon as the pastilla are out of the oven, spread cinnnamon and powdered sugar on the top.
Place the pastilla in the center of the plate, surrended by the salad.
Ready to serve !

Thanks to Bertrand Gueneron who entrusted me with that recipe !

Elue Ambassade du pays Basque : Au Bascou
Un sympathique établissement qui présente un rapport qualité prix des plus avantageux.
Derrière une devanture discrète se cache une véritable vitrine de la côte basque, (..), et même si le chef, Bertrand Guénéron (ancien second au Lucas carton), est breton, les nourritures toutes en saveur et en nuances, elles, sont bien du sud-ouest.
Le Journal du Parlement 
Translation : Elected embassy of the Pays Basque (Hinterlands) : the Bascou
A nice and charming place with a great value for money. Behind a shy storefront is hidden a true window to the Pays Basque. Even if the Chef  Bertrand Gueneron (ex 2nd at the Lucas Carton) is from brittany, the flavours, are savory and delicate as the ones of the south-west.

"Dans cette auberge basque, ensoleillée de piments suspendus... la cloche sonne gaiement pour signaler que les plats sont prêts. On propose ici des nourritures sensuelles et gourmandes, de quoi en tout cas se faire plaisir sans prendre un gramme. Un vrai bonheur..."
Le Journal du Dimanche, nov 06
In this basque Inn, enlightned by hanged chili... the bell happiy rings to announce a new dish coming up. Sensuality and generous food is proposed... you can discover and enjoy without gaining any weight... a real pleasure !

So, the Bascou :) 
In this brassery/restaurant, Bertrand is always here and he contributes to the warmth and the jolly atmospehere of the place. He comes out of the kitchen at the beginning and at the end of his service. He speaks and learns something about each of his client. He listends, advises, compliments or critics.
They are aways booked, no surprise :)
In the menu, you'll find a lot of basque-dishes, but not only.

He has succeded to make the place a romantic and inimate restaurant as much as it's a family one.
The room is deep and narrow, each table has its own vital space.
As soon as you get in, you know you will spend a marvelous evening.

The design is also really interesting : each chair has its story, from a theater, an opera, a bistro etc.
The Bascou in a restaurant with a lot of character.

I really love it :)

No comments:

Post a Comment